Episode 78: The Asian Snack Aisle ft. Pearl River Mart
Joanne Kwong, President of Pearl River Mart, the iconic NYC “friendship store” specializing in Asian goods since 1971, joined us to chat about the Asian snack aisle! We find out what the best selling classics are at the store, as well as what’s new and trending. Joanne also speaks to the history and progression of the Pearl River brand, and gives us a sneak peek of the soon-to-be opened fourth location dedicated to Asian foods.
Joanne notes the Asian snack aisle is fun because “You’re usually there for discovery.” You’re browsing the bountiful selection, making choices based on the attractive packaging, and you don’t really know what to expect until you’ve tried it. With that said, we kick things off with our first on-air snack tasting (and ASMR session) of treats Joanne brought along from Pearl River.
Snack Tasting Notes
Calbee: Shrimp chips (Halloween Edition)
Halloween is interpreted as caramel by Calbee. The initial flavor is heavily caramel, and the aftertaste is the classic shrimp chip flavor we’re familiar with.
Calbee: Jagabee
The butter soy sauce flavor is deliciously umami and savory. Each chip is shaped like a dehydrated McDonald’s french fry. The serenely napping potato on the packaging adds appeal.
Karamucho: Corn soup with pepper flavor corn snacks
Corn on corn, so it’s excellent if you like corn. Familiar Cheetos shape, less familiar mascot of a Hawaiian shirt wearing grandparent.
Tochi: Salted egg potato chips
Joanne noticed while traveling through Asia that salted duck egg, a classic condiment, are all the rage in snacks. Here, the flavor coats potato chips for a salty, crunchy bite.
Yakult gummies
It’s a subtle Yakult flavored QQ gummy in the shape of Yakult bottles.
Morinaga: Hi-Chews
One of the top selling snacks at Pearl River. Recently the brand reached their 10 year mark in the US and introduced new flavors that customers could vote on as part of the celebration. The ultimate winner was dragon fruit, and this tastes and even looks the part of dragon fruit.
Calpico: Fruits & Veggies
Same great Calpico taste. The fruits & veggies packaging suggests we get added nutritional value drinking this version.
Brooklyn Crafted: Hawthorn Berry Herbal Tea
Hawthorn is a nostalgic flavor for Asians that grew up eating Haw Flakes. Unlike the overly sweet and tart Haw Flakes, this flavor is mild and easily drinkable. Hawthorn also helps with digestion notes Joanne.
Ramune Soda
These are massively popular sodas with kids that you ‘pop’ open by pushing a marble down into the drink. Joanne and I had to revisit the popping operation off-air as the whole set-up was adult-proof for us.
Each Pearl River store caters to a different demographic due to its location. At Chelsea Market, where Joanne sees the highest volume of foodies and tourists from across the world, she ensures the classics like Pocky, Hi-Chews, interesting Kit-Kat flavors from Japan, and a huge selection of gummies are stocked. Then she rounds out the selection by giving an ongoing lineup of new products an opportunity to shine. “We let the feet do the picking,” says Joanne.
In the Asian snack world, she notices that Southeast Asian countries are having a moment as they’re producing flavors that are less common. “I haven’t met a curry snack I didn’t like,” says Joanne. To keep up with all the trends, Joanne and her multi-generational family try to go to a different Asian country every summer and bring back ideas of what both kids and older adults will like as their customers encompass all age groups.
When shopping at the snack aisle of a Western supermarket, Joanne says she’s typically looking for something specific rather than something new.
“I do feel like shopping in the Asian snack aisle is joyful, it’s not transactional. You’re going to spend a little bit of time there.”
In the 4th store dedicated to Asian foods, Joanne says we can expect prepared foods and specialty goods for cooking as well as Asian American food entrepreneurs who are innovating in their field. For example, Mao’s Bao will have a stall in the space. Eddie Mao makes little sheng jian baos, like xiao long bao’s pan fried sibling, with both classic and unexpected fillings like Oreo, and even offers an ImpossiBao.
We end our conversation by talking about the beloved Pearl River brand that has evolved in various iterations over the last 45 years. “There’s definitely pressure to live up to memory, ”says Joanne. As e-commerce increasingly challenges traditional brick-and-mortar stores, Joanne believes the ones that survive are those that have stayed true to themselves, and have found a way to have genuine conversations with their customers, and give back to the community.
“One of the things that you do need in the city, in general, and in retail, is more joy and a little more personality.”
